24 Jul 2011

Muslinology...

A recent post on Gertie's blog here made me re-think the muslin-problem. In the past I produced a huge amount of UFO's due to not making a muslin of the pattern before sewing. Basically, it was all about making up something and not even fitting during the process. I was like 15-16 years old and just didn't mind I guess...
Now I decided to make a muslin for every single pattern I plan to sew.
In the first place it will be the first time for me to work with US patterns, so I didn't even know which size to choose. I thought to do it the easy way - I wear EU size small or 36, so size 10 patterns will be fine. Well, I was wrong. It turned out to be size 12 (for Vogue patterns even a size 14 at the waist...)

The first was SImplicity 2591
Though I don't like the ruffles around the waist (more specifically right above the belly part) I love the simplicity (how convenient...) of the whole look. And of course, the pockets. Although I might try to make a combination with an other, half circle skirt pattern.

Started with size 10:
- really tight, though great fit with no ease at all
- the shoulders stood up on the inside, I have to make that line more flat
- didn't like the wide boatneck, so I should take it in at the widest part with 1 cm on each side
size 12:
- with the adjustments around the neckline just perfect!

The second muslin I made was for my all time fav. - Vogue 9668 (view A)
size 10:
- was really skintight, but the width of the shoulders and the length from the shoulder to under the bust line was just perfect
made a size 12:
- shoulders too wide and indeed, the length to the under the bust line just too long
- it was roomy enough everywhere but at the waistline

Pattern adjustments:
- traced size 12, but kept the height of the size 10 and rounded the armholes towards the size 12 line at the armholes
- I widened the pattern to size 14 fro the bustdarts down (really fine when yours go till size 10...)

I realized that I didn't make any pics of the process, but I'm going to do that in the future.
The question is, when am I doing to sew a garment instead of only producing muslins?...
Next up is the Lonsdale dress - another muslin and hopefully a dress too...

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