3 Jun 2014

7-piece mini-wardrobe from 1948

Today I have a 7-piece, late-40's mini wardrobe, designed by fashion editor Mary Hordern (1911-1961) The basic items below combine well for autumn and winter. These looks represent the New Look-style with clinched-in waist, fullness around the hips and rounded shoulders.
"Although clever ideas sponsored by Paris designers are featured, there is nothing too complex for the average home dressmaker to handle." 
the 7 pieces:
  • overcoat 
  • suit with two different skirts 
  • two-piece day frock 
  • two-piece evening frock
"Complies with voluminous lines decreed by all overseas designers. It is made with a stiffened detachable collar, worn flat with cape effect, as a hood, or high as a storm collar (as shown above). If you prefer it, make the collar of fur, plaid or tweed, backed with a lighter or darker toned material than the pine-green of the coat.
Other good color for this coat would be mustard yellow, lilac, crimson, tortoiseshell or verdegris-green. Be sure the color chosen goes both with your frock and suit."

"Select whatever color will tone with your overcoat. Coat of the suit is made with magyar sleeves, nipped waist, simple rolled collar. One skirt has a peg-top made with small tucks and one back pleat.
The second skirt is made with panelled flares overpleated. It can be worn with a sweater and flat shoes for the country or with a tailored coat for town."

did you know...
...that 'pegging' is creating width in the hips and closeness at the hem, fashionable in the beginning of the 20th century. It came into fashion again in the 50's, when a tiny waist was accentuated by wide hips for the New Look.
two-piece day frock:
"Top, with scooped basque, can be worn outside or tucked into the skirt. It is made with a small collar and magyar sleeves. Trim it with either a crisp, white, starched collar or a black velvet bow. The peg-top skirt, made with seamed tucks can also be worn with sweaters for casual occasions."

did you know...
...that a 'magyar' sleeve an early 50's sleeve type is? It is halfway between a dolman and batwing sleeve, tapering towards the wrist. There is often an underarm gusset added.
two-piece evening frock:
"The fitted bodice of back velvet has a halter-neck strap pulled wide under the arms. If you like, trim it with roses of velvet bows. The skirt can be of any color and is made on a drawstring, giving fullness."

did you know...
...that the foundation garment of those years was the guepiere, a  corselette which pulled only at one place, the actual waist?

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