An easy method for stranded knitting

Well, it's been a while since the last post (again). Somehow, the summer months are not the best for me to blog. I've been busy with gardening, enjoying my days off, running, doing lots of things or just doing nothing at all. In the meantime finished my Clinical instructor course and having a few weeks off right now and ... I'm knitting again. Today I'd like to discuss a great and simple method for stranded knitting.

never done stranded knitting before
I've been knitting for many years now, but one thing I've never tried is stranded or fair isle knitting. Have you? My recent, first attempt to (a rather simple, 2-color) stranded knitting was a disaster. I couldn't keep the right tension, didn't know where to keep the yarn and at the end of the day I didn't enjoy the whole experience at all. Sounds familiar?
Then I remembered that Ingrid from the Couturette blog posted a link on a Ravelry a while ago, in a discussion panel during the Knit for Victory challenge. Though the spoken comment in video was in German I thought at the time that the images were quite clear. It had a quite interesting, but very clear and logical approach by knitting every row in two takes: once with the contrast color yarn and then with the main color yarn. No fuzzing with the different color yarns and I must say, the results looked great!

front and back view:
First, let me show you my work. As you can see, there is no pulling or stretching , the pattern is very even, just as the stitches (this particular piece is knitted top-down)


Also the wrong side of the work looks neat. there are no long strands of yarn and it has a lot of elasticity:


how to:
So, how do you knit this? Here are the basic rules you need to know. (This is written for 2-color patterns, as the most fair isle patterns are knit in 2 colored pattern sections)

• you knit every row twice, first with the contrast color yarn, then with the main color yarn.
• you need to knit the matching stitches of your pattern and just slip the stitches of the other color without knitting.
• if you need to slip more than 2 stitches you add a yarn over and slip the next stitches (as a rule you need to add a yarn over after every two slipped stitches. Of course, you are free to leave longer strands for 3 stitches too.) 
• In the next turn you knit the yarn overs together with the stitch next to it, so it won't be visible on the right side:
• for KNIT rows knit the yarn over together with the next stitch (=the stitch after the yarn over)  
• for the PURL rows you knit the yarn over with the previous stitch (=before the yarn over)
• remember, you only need to twist the yarns at the end/beginning of the rows!

It might seem a lot at first sight, but trust me, once you get started it makes sense!
For a first attempt I'd suggest to knit a simple, symmetrical pattern, like the little hearts I used. That way it is easy to track back which color to use, especially when working with the yarn overs on the wrong side.
Here is the chart I used:


+ 
- very even tension!
- even stitches
- very neat, short strands on the wrong side of the work
- a lot of elasticity, no pulling
-
- it takes a few rows to get handy in working with the yarn overs, especially at the wrong side (you always have a better view of your pattern on the right side)
- I suppose it would work for multicolor knitting as well, once you have some experience in how to work the yarn overs away
- you have to knit every row twice which takes more time than the traditional method for stranded knitting THOUGH: I don't count slipped stitches and yarn overs as time consuming and watching your tension and loops at the back is time consuming as well imo, if you are not experienced in stranded knitting.

Below the original video. Though it's lengthy it is worth to watch it:
(How comes that many knitters have cats and cats are attracted by knitted pieces?...)

Vintage 1966 embroidered baby bootie for cool summer days

I don't know how the weather is anywhere else, here it has turned into a rainy summer right now. When the weather is rainy I tend to turn to knitting, rather than sewing. How about you?
I thought it would be nice to continue the Big Baby Bootie project with a light, summery pair of booties, this time from the 60's. These booties have an unusual shape and are very easy to make. Left the original, right my version.
How cute is this?!

As you can see you can use any color, you could even add a pretty figure-button instead of the embroidery.


material & sizing:

The original pattern uses 4-ply yarn, the tension is not specified.
As usual, I made mine with a fingering weight yarn, metric size 3 needles and a tension of approx. 28 sts to 10cm (7sts=1in)
The finished size is 8,5 cm (3,3 in) from heel to toe, which should fit newborn to 3 month old babies.

construction:
The construction is quite interesting again. It is a top-down knit.
After knitting the short cuff you continue with a row of holes for the ribbon. Then you divide the knit in 3 and continue separately with the sides and the front part. After knitting through the remaining stitches continue with the toe-shaping.


toe-shaping:


the side openings sewn together:



After assembling and adding a ribbon in a contrasting color it looks already pretty:

my tip:
if you plan to add embroidery or other decoration, the best time to do this before assembling the booties!

flower embroidery step-by-step:
The little flower is a simple embroidery work. There are no instructions in the original pattern, I assume in the 60's just everybody knew how tho embroider these simple little flowers (just like I learned from my grandma). Here is a step-by-step guide. I used the same yarn in a different color.

1. Start by pulling up the thread in the center of the flower. Put the needle through the center again and up at the outer point of the petal. This way you actually make a loop:


2. As you pull your thread up you are now in the middle of your loop:


3. Now secure your loop by putting the needle down right outside your loop. Finally pull the thread up in the center.


4. Continue making the other petals, starting across the first one.
I usually do 6 of them.


Here is how the finished flower looks:

abbreviations for beginners:

k = knit

p = purl

st-st. = stocking stitch

inc = increase or make one by knitting twice in one stitch

w.fwd = wool forward (or yarn over)

k 2 tog = knit two stitches together

sl1 = slip one stitch over from left needle to right needle without knitting

p.s.s.o. = pass slipped stitch over the loop of the k stitch

the original pattern:

sew for victory final wrap up video

Watch the video of all finished items HERE!

7-piece mini-wardrobe from 1948

Today I have a 7-piece, late-40's mini wardrobe, designed by fashion editor Mary Hordern (1911-1961) The basic items below combine well for autumn and winter. These looks represent the New Look-style with clinched-in waist, fullness around the hips and rounded shoulders.

"Although clever ideas sponsored by Paris designers are featured, there is nothing too complex for the average home dressmaker to handle." 

the 7 pieces:

• overcoat 
• suit with two different skirts 
• two-piece day frock 
• two-piece evening frock

overcoat:
"Complies with voluminous lines decreed by all overseas designers. It is made with a stiffened detachable collar, worn flat with cape effect, as a hood, or high as a storm collar (as shown above). If you prefer it, make the collar of fur, plaid or tweed, backed with a lighter or darker toned material than the pine-green of the coat.
Other good color for this coat would be mustard yellow, lilac, crimson, tortoiseshell or verdegris-green. Be sure the color chosen goes both with your frock and suit."


suit:
"Select whatever color will tone with your overcoat. Coat of the suit is made with magyar sleeves, nipped waist, simple rolled collar. One skirt has a peg-top made with small tucks and one back pleat.
The second skirt is made with panelled flares overpleated. It can be worn with a sweater and flat shoes for the country or with a tailored coat for town."

did you know...
...that 'pegging' is creating width in the hips and closeness at the hem, fashionable in the beginning of the 20th century. It came into fashion again in the 50's, when a tiny waist was accentuated by wide hips for the New Look.

two-piece day frock:
"Top, with scooped basque, can be worn outside or tucked into the skirt. It is made with a small collar and magyar sleeves. Trim it with either a crisp, white, starched collar or a black velvet bow. The peg-top skirt, made with seamed tucks can also be worn with sweaters for casual occasions."

did you know...
...that a 'magyar' sleeve an early 50's sleeve type is? It is halfway between a dolman and batwing sleeve, tapering towards the wrist. There is often an underarm gusset added.

two-piece evening frock:
"The fitted bodice of back velvet has a halter-neck strap pulled wide under the arms. If you like, trim it with roses of velvet bows. The skirt can be of any color and is made on a drawstring, giving fullness."

did you know...
...that the foundation garment of those years was the guepiere, a  corselette which pulled only at one place, the actual waist?