Today I have a 7-piece, late-40's mini wardrobe, designed by fashion editor Mary Hordern (1911-1961) The basic items below combine well for autumn and winter. These looks represent the New Look-style with clinched-in waist, fullness around the hips and rounded shoulders.
"Although clever ideas sponsored by Paris designers are featured, there is nothing too complex for the average home dressmaker to handle."the 7 pieces:
- overcoat
- suit with two different skirts
- two-piece day frock
- two-piece evening frock
"Complies with voluminous lines decreed by all overseas designers. It is made with a stiffened detachable collar, worn flat with cape effect, as a hood, or high as a storm collar (as shown above). If you prefer it, make the collar of fur, plaid or tweed, backed with a lighter or darker toned material than the pine-green of the coat.
Other good color for this coat would be mustard yellow, lilac, crimson, tortoiseshell or verdegris-green. Be sure the color chosen goes both with your frock and suit."
suit:
"Select whatever color will tone with your overcoat. Coat of the suit is made with magyar sleeves, nipped waist, simple rolled collar. One skirt has a peg-top made with small tucks and one back pleat.
The second skirt is made with panelled flares overpleated. It can be worn with a sweater and flat shoes for the country or with a tailored coat for town."
did you know...two-piece day frock:
...that 'pegging' is creating width in the hips and closeness at the hem, fashionable in the beginning of the 20th century. It came into fashion again in the 50's, when a tiny waist was accentuated by wide hips for the New Look.
"Top, with scooped basque, can be worn outside or tucked into the skirt. It is made with a small collar and magyar sleeves. Trim it with either a crisp, white, starched collar or a black velvet bow. The peg-top skirt, made with seamed tucks can also be worn with sweaters for casual occasions."
did you know...two-piece evening frock:
...that a 'magyar' sleeve an early 50's sleeve type is? It is halfway between a dolman and batwing sleeve, tapering towards the wrist. There is often an underarm gusset added.
"The fitted bodice of back velvet has a halter-neck strap pulled wide under the arms. If you like, trim it with roses of velvet bows. The skirt can be of any color and is made on a drawstring, giving fullness."
did you know...
...that the foundation garment of those years was the guepiere, a corselette which pulled only at one place, the actual waist?
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