Here are the pictures of my perfected muslin. Looks very 1940's, doesn't it? And it looks exactly like the model drawing! The bodice is not super fitted, although this is not really clear when looking at the drawing.
For the pictures I've put on a small belt. So it is visible that the horizontal line between the bodice and the skirt part sits perfect on the waistline.
Here are the adjustments:
- Stitched down the pleats. The pleats look like the model drawing:
- Widened the upper part of the cuffs by 1 cm. The sleeve falls much better now:
- As for the back, I started with a swayback- adjustment.
There are different methods for this, I did the following:
Took out a horizontal piece, which I folded. This shortens the midline in the back and is tapered to nothing at the sides. The fit is better now. It is not totally fitted, since I want to wear the dress with a belt, so I need a bit of extra ease. You can observe a few vertical lines towards the sides, this is a sign that I have to take out a bit less fabric towards the sides:
And here is a before (left) after (right) comparison:
Now I need to transfer the changes to the paper pattern pieces. One thing that I need to do is to add the same amount of fabric at the bottom of the skirt as the amount I took out in the middle of the skirt back. On the right picture above is clear that the side seam moves towards the back! This needs to be corrected too.
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