Wardobe basics - what not to wear?

Since my goal is to build a versatile wardrobe I’ve been looking around to find out how to approach this. Tim Gunn, known from the tv series 'Project runway' and 'Tim Gunn's guide to style' starts with a list of basic pieces that every woman should have in her wardrobe. The list looks like this

1. Basic Black Dress ('Little Black Dress')
2. Trench Coat
3. Dress Pants
4. Classic Shirt
5. Jeans
6. Any Occasion Top/Cashmere sweater
7. Skirt
8. Day Dress
9. Jacket/Blazer
10. Sweatsuit Alternative

What I like:
- the list is a good start for building a wardrobe with basic pieces which you can combine
What I don’t like:
- I feel like you really have to know your body shape to suceed with this approach. What flatters you, what doesn't?
- Personally, I don’t look good with white clothes on, anything white makes me look like I’m 'dead'
- I would love to have a wardrobe with only dresses and skirts and blouses
- Where are the knitted sweaters/cardigans? I really love to wear them in the spring/summertime instead of a blazer
- I feel like this is a good wardrobe base for people who have an ‘office-job’, which I haven't. Since I have an 'uniform-job' and go by bike to work wearing most of the time jeans and a rain jacket. I don’t feel like dressing up for those 2x20 minutes of biking. When I’m free I tend to dress up and prefer wearing dresses and skirts. I don’t know when I wore ‘dress pants’ for the last time…
So, what's next? I am leaning towards the body-shape approach of the English Trinny ans Suzannah, known from the TV-series ‘What not to wear’. In their book ‘The Body Shape Bible’ they have identified 12 body shapes. Here I tried to describe these shapes just in one or two words, you can read more (full article here)

apple ‘round’
hourglass ‘big boobs, short waist’
skittle – ‘has a thigh situation’
vase – ‘large boobs, soft belly’
cornet - ‘triangular tomboy’
lollypop- ‘big boobs, endless legs’
column – ‘tall’
bell- ‘petite with a large lower half’
goblet – ‘heavy and square above’
cello – ‘curvy, petite’
pear – ‘saddlebags and full legs’
brick – ‘a masculine shape from behind’

Well, I still can''t determine which type I am. I was leaning towards the 'skittle' because of the 'thigh-issue', but I'm rather wide shouldered so the flat chested, skittle is just not me. I must admit, the advice of clothes suits me well. Looking at my mum and grandma I think I would grow out to an apple if I didn't do my daily exercises, running and biking, but for now, that's just not the case. I have the short waist but not the big boobs of the hourglass, though my hips and shoulders seems to have the same width. When I think of an hourglass figure I think Nigella Lawson and Kate Winslet: tiny waist and curvy hips. Really beautiful and feminine.
Maybe I should just go to the library and read the book itself?
*To be continued*